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"Excellent" condition means that the vehicle looks great, is in excellent mechanical condition and needs no reconditioning. It should pass a smog inspection. The engine compartment should be clean, with no fluid leaks. The paint is glossy and the body and interior are free of any wear or visible defects. There is no rust. The tires are the proper size and match and are new or nearly new. A clean title history is assumed. This is an exceptional vehicle. "Good" condition means that the vehicle is free of any major defects. The paint, body and interior have only minor (if any) blemishes, and there are no major mechanical problems. In states where rust is a problem, this should be very minimal, and a deduction should be made to correct it. The tires match and have substantial tread wear left. A clean title history is assumed. A "good" vehicle will need some reconditioning to be sold at retail; however major reconditioning should be deducted from the value. Most recent model cars owned by consumers fall into this category. "Fair" condition means that the vehicle probably has some mechanical or cosmetic defects, but is still in safe running condition. The paint, body and/or interior need work to be performed by a professional in order to be sold. The tires need to be replaced. There may be some repairable rust damage. The value of cars in this category may vary widely. A clean title history is assumed. Even after significant reconditioning this vehicle may not qualify for the Blue Book Suggested Retail value. "Poor"
condition means that the vehicle has severe mechanical and/or
cosmetic defects and may be in questionable running condition.
The vehicle may have problems that cannot be readily fixed such
as a damaged frame or a rusted-through body. A vehicle with a
branded title (salvage, flood, etc.) or unsubstantiated mileage
should be considered “poor” because of potential problems
and should be independently appraised to determine its value.
The lining above your head on the underside
of the roof. Headliners are usually not a problem. However,
sometimes they are faded or have stains or tears. They can be
replaced, but this requires some time and expense.
Should be clean and not faded or ripped.
Leather is a special case. It usually has some added value if
it is in good shape. However, if it needs repair or replacing
it is much more expensive than cloth or vinyl to do so.
Older cars usually have some carpet wear. If
so, it must be replaced for the vehicle to be worth top dollar.
Any stains will reduce the value.
The dashboard is usually not a problem.
However, sometimes they have been dented or scratched. More
often they could have sun damage in the form of fading or
cracking leather or vinyl trim.
Metal and paint are very subjective items.
You must keep in mind that while some minor dents and scratches
are normal wear & tear as the car gets older, the new buyer
expects it to be perfect. When you drive the same car for
several years, these imperfections sometimes start to go
unnoticed. Door chips and sand damage are sometimes subtle and
should be looked at carefully.
A warning about Metal & Paint
reconditioning: If you have paid for reconditioning that
was not done properly (a "fixed" dent that appears
wavy, etc.) the person appraising the car may deduct for
reconditioning anyway.
The side windows are usually not a problem as
long as they operate properly. You should pay special attention
to the windshield and rear window. The rear window sometimes
gets sun damage in the form of checking, cracking or
discoloration. The windshield is the most important glass, as
it is the most expensive and is most subject to damage. Besides
the obvious cracking, checking and discoloration, sand damage
is the most commonly overlooked problem by the layman. Sand
damage can range from slight to the point where it impairs
vision. In either case, the windshield will usually need to be
replaced.
Check around the window mouldings, wheel
wells, under the doors, door hinge area and taillight mouldings.
Look in the trunk area under the mat. Look for rust on the
hubcaps or on the bumper. Look underneath the vehicle. Is there
rust on the underbody? Look under the hood. Is the engine
compartment pitted or corroded?
The exact nature of a mechanical problem is
difficult for a layman to diagnose. Even the experts can't
always be sure of the nature or the magnitude of the problem
without at least partially disabling the part. If you are in
doubt, have a reputable repair shop give you an opinion of the
problem and an estimated cost of repair.
Tires must be the proper size and match for
the vehicle. They should be near new to avoid a deduction when
the car is appraised. The depth of the new tire tread for the
average passenger car is about 3/8" (this can go to nearly
1/2"). All-terrain & off-road tires found on trucks
and sport utility vehicles should have at least 1/4" of
tread. Any less than 1/4" will likely result in a
deduction as the dealer will probably want to replace the tires
before offering the vehicle for resale. More about Rating The Condition
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